Here we go again

Washington state lawmakers want to ban “military-style semi-automatic weapons,” whatever that means.

I say that because, at least given what’s written in the article, they don’t even know what that means. Probably involves a shoulder thing that goes up, I’m sure.

In response to recent shooting deaths, three state lawmakers say they want to ban the sale of military-style semi-automatic weapons in Washington.

Of course. We must do something. Think of the children.

The legislation, called the Aaron Sullivan Public Safety and Police Protection Bill, would prohibit the sale of such weapons to private citizens and require current owners to pass background checks.

It is named for Aaron Sullivan, 18, who was fatally shot last July in Seattle’s Leschi neighborhood, allegedly with an assault-style weapon.

Current owners must pass (more) background checks, because you law-abiding citizens obviously aren’t trustworthy enough. The NICS check and 4473 apparently isn’t good enough. I guess there’s no consideration to the fact that someone illegally in possession of a gun (like these criminal gang members) aren’t going to submit to any background check of any sort. But you know, lawmakers… they’ve got to look tough.

The bill is backed by Seattle’s police department, spokeswoman Renee Witt said. Also pushing it is Washington Ceasefire, a nonprofit that seeks to reduce gun violence. The group plans a news conference today to announce the proposal.

I love the groups that seek to reduce gun violence. Ban the gun and gun violence will go away, right? No, it won’t go away. It may reduce the number of violent acts performed by guns, but sure as heck overall violence will rise. Look at the UK. Gun violence might be down, but overall violence is up. Different implements are used by the criminals (e.g. knives), and law-abiding citizens have fewer and less effective tools at their disposal for protecting themselves. Is this the goal groups like Washington Ceasefire have? Perhaps, but I would like to believe they are just misguided and really want to reduce violence on the whole. That being the case, they should work to address the deeper root causes, instead of trying to ban symptoms that have proven time and time again will not meet their goals.

The ban would cover semiautomatics designed for military use that are capable of rapid-fire and can hold more than 10 rounds. Semiautomatics designed for sporting or hunting purposes wouldn’t be banned.

“If they’re used in the army, used in the war — that’s what this ban is about,” said Ralph Fascitelli, the board president of Washington Ceasefire.

Oh, we’ve been down this road before. But if that’s the case, it sounds like our AR’s are safe. They aren’t designed for military use, and certainly have much sporting and hunting use.

Really, this just his misguided and ignorant written all over it. Too much to write here. If you’re reading this and don’t know how that’s misguided and ignorant, drop me a line and I’ll be happy to expound.

“We don’t allow people to own tanks or bazookas or machine guns, and very few people think that that’s an unreasonable restriction,” [Rep. Ross Hunter, D-Medina] said.

Uh wait a minute. So we already don’t allow people to use stuff used in the army, yet this new ban is about stuff people in the army use. So uh… what are you banning? More ignorance.

And here we are with the notion of “reasonable restrictions.” Please define. And why is your definition the one that wins out? Oh, because you’re the “open-minded” one. I’ve learned about these progressive types. “Open-minded” means “agreeing with me.”

[Rep. Jeanee] Kohl-Welles [D-Seattle] said the lawmakers are trying to be practical and aren’t suggesting guns be taken from current owners.

Oh yes you are. Requiring background checks for current owners? I suppose if they fail whatever it is you deem as worthy criteria for owning a gun, you will take them away. The mere fact you’re suggesting anything like this just raises the slippery slope.

She [Kohl-Welles] also said she doesn’t believe such a ban would violate the Second Amendment, the right to bear arms.

“Did the framers of our Constitution ever envision something like a semi-automatic weapon?” she asked.

Well, if you consider things like the ancient Chinese repeating crossbows that were first created in 4 B.C…. yeah, I’d say it’s possible the framers could have imagined something like a semi-automatic firearm.

So if the only things protected by our Constitution are things the framers could have imagined, let’s outfit our military with flintlock muskets. Apparently that’s the only legitimate thing. Those framers could never have considered that this country might exist for years or even decades and that things might change. Nah… they were some short-sighted people.

On the same token, did the framers of our Constitution ever envision something like the Internet? Guess that “freedom of speech” thing should be banned on the same grounds.

Is it worth it?

After reading about the price breakdown for 1000 yard shooting and with all the reloading stuff on my brain, I was curious if my .223 Rem reloading effort was financially worth it.

Continue reading

Good Customer Service

Last night during dry fire practice the front sight fiber optic insert popped out again.

*sigh*

As noted previously, I didn’t quite get the insert installed flush so I’m not really surprised. I’m not 100% sure what happened but my guess is the little mushroom/knob snagged on something while I was doing a draw, popped off, and there went the fiber. I do have one last rod of red fiber insert, but I have been tempted to run without any insert to see what it’s like.

But the good customer service?

I phoned Dawson Precision because I wasn’t sure how thick the rod should be; they sell 0.40″ and 0.60″ inserts. I asked the lady on the phone about shipping them. These are just tiny little fiber inserts. Why should a $9.25 UPS shipping charge be incurred for such a thing? Besides, I’m in Austin, not too far from their offices (tho too far to drive right now). Could they just put the inserts into an envelope and ship them for the cost of a first class postage stamp? I’ll get them faster and cheaper that way. The lady on the phone took my name and told me to put my order through on the website. She’d look for the order and do just that for me.

Now THAT is some cool customer service! 🙂

Join the TSRA

I went to the Texas State Rifle Association website this morning and was pleased to see they have their online join/renew/upgrade system finally working. Awesome.

If you are a gun owner and you live in Texas, there’s no excuse for not being a member of TSRA. They have much to ensure you can remain a gun owner in Texas, and they need your help to continue their mission fighting for your rights.

Regular annual membership is $25. I know you can afford that because I know you can afford to buy one box of ammo. Consider it a worthwhile trade.

Disclosure: I am a Life member of TSRA and an Endowment (Life) Member of the NRA. Apart from that, I have no other affiliation with TSRA. My desire to get people to join the TSRA is purely my own.

Cool, but no

The AnarchAngel has a lengthy write-up about the “baseline” for getting into 1000 yard shooting.

There was a time when the thought of such long-distance shooting appealed to me. Doing things like high power rifle competition could be really neat. But I knew it would be expensive. The AnarchAngel’s break-down of cost? pretty much seals it that it’s one hobby I won’t be getting into.

There’s been rumor of a 1000 yard range opening up in the area, but for years it’s been just that — rumor. Austin Rifle Club goes out to 200 yards (bench, prone, sitting, standing) and Eagle Peak can do 300 yards benchrest.

On primer selection

The reason I’m spending so much time looking into this .223 Remington hunting load? Because it’s interesting.

Sure I could just pick a few things and go, but the way the market is right now I don’t have every possible option. I can only get what primers or powders some retailer happens to have in stock. I can’t just get any primer and powder I want and dial in some existing load recipe and be done with it. Because only so much stuff is out there I’m being forced to learn and explore a lot of things in the ammo reloading process. It’s kinda cool. As I uncover more things it changes any plans I may have laid. Frankly, I’m finding it all pretty darn interesting.

I mentioned some of my findings in the previous article, but now I want to talk about primers.

The only small rifle primers I could find were CCI #41 and Magtech PR-SR. I could find decent info on the CCI primers, but not much on the Magtech’s as Magtech isn’t touted in the marquee names of ammo (Federal, CCI, Winchester, Remington). However Magtech does make decent ammo; I’ve used some of their stuff for practice and it’s worked fine, and many others online echo similar experiences. I figure these are the same primers they use in their manufactured ammo, and what reports I can find about their primers are generally positive, so why not give them a try. Certainly, beggars can’t be choosers. The CCI #41 are considered the same as the CCI 450 magnum small rifle primers, but just a bit “harder” to combat possible slam-fires.

I’ve got both types of primers on order.

When I looked at the data in the Barnes reloading manual, of course many powders were available but the top performers appeared to be TAC, H-4895, and Varget. So I ordered some jugs of those and figured they’d be a reasonable place to start. They’re also reviewed well for .308 Winchester loads so if the powder doesn’t work out for the .223 loads maybe it will for the .308.

So what powders to pair with what primers?

I’m not aware of any hard-fast rule that says I must do this or I can’t do that. But I have learned that in general magnum primers are better with spherical powders. This article phrases it nicely:

To begin, the main difference between a standard-force and a magnum-force primer is in the length of its burning time. A magnum-force primer burns longer than a standard force and therefore tends to increase chamber heat variously depending upon the primer’s own power, the powder involved, and cartridge case size plus bullet weight. As a rule of thumb, standard-force primers have been recommended for all rifle situations except those employing ball-type powders and those using more than fifty grains of slow-rate extruded powder such as IMR-4350, H-4831, and IMR-7828. In handguns, it has been common to see recommendations for magnum primers in all ball-powder reloads and all magnum-length cases. A lot or reloaders follow these generalities solely for the “safe of ignition”, no thought being given to accuracy considerations.

I spent some time looking at the .223 Remington data in my Speer #14 manual. It’s recipes use CCI 400 or 450 primers, and even says the CCI #41 primer may be substituted for CCI 450. In the data tables, any powder marked to use the magnum primer is a spherical powder. So there you go. However, I’ve also read lots of reports of people mixing and matching, so I would gather it’s no hard rule. But it sounds like any load: start low and carefully work your way up. Your gun’s sweet spot may vary.

Then throw in things like from Ramshot’s own FAQ:

Q: It’s been my experience that I need to use a magnum primer with spherical powders. Do I need to use a magnum primer with Ramshot powders?
A: While this may have been true with spherical powders in the past, Ramshot powders employ a new technology of coatings which increase ease of ignition, cleanliness and in most cases decrease temperature sensitivity. You also have to take into account your firearm’s accuracy which may or may not perform better with magnum versus non-magnum primers.

So yeah… easy answers. 🙂

I also can’t help but wonder… given the rifle I’m working these loads up for is an AR-15 with a carbine-length gas system, might a (theoretically) faster-burning powder be better? perhaps even coupled with a magnum primer to get as much burn in before the gases start to cycle back? I don’t know, just ignorantly wondering aloud.

Then I have to consider it’s rather cold out right now, and I’d likely want to develop the load below max so come summertime the same load doesn’t become an over-max load.

Ultimately it points to one simple thing: start with minimum loads and slowly work your way up.

My current thinking (and this could change in an hour): as soon as I have all of my components in, I will load minimum loads (strictly following the Barnes #4 book data) varying on powder and primer combinations. Bullets will be the same, cases will be the same, C.O.L. will be the same, Lee Factory Crimp, so all that varies is powder and primers. I will load 5 rounds of each of the 3 powders with each of the 2 primers (yielding 30 rounds total). I’ll then take these to the gun range along with some factory loads. While the factory loads won’t provide apples-to-apples comparison, they’ll still provide some sort of reference point. Shoot things and see how they do. The main thing will be looking to see how the powder and primer combinations work out. Whatever combination appears to work best, continue with that combination of powder and primer and now bump up the powder charge (on a subsequent reload and range session) and see how things go. Granted this isn’t definitive… it’s always possible some powder-primer combo with a minimum charge may perform differently with a larger charge. But this sounds like a good way to start. If you more experienced reloaders reading this have suggestions otherwise, I’m all ears.

Various articles on reloading

In all of my Googling around about reloading (handloading) ammo, I’ve come across some interesting articles

About Load Density.

General Reloading Tips.

Right now my mindset is thinking about the .223 Remington reloads that I’ve been writing about lately. I’ve got some Barnes TSX .224″ 53 grain on hand and have some 62 grain on order. I’m wanting to use the 62 grain (I’d like a heavier bullet), but just in case this particular rifle can’t stabilize 62 grain (it should) then I’ll fall back to 53 grain.

So I’ve been thinking about what powder to use. TAC meters very well and seems to produce some of the highest velocities at a relatively low density (by comparison). H-4895 and Varget produce velocities on the lower end of the chart (tho still quite fast), and have at or just over 100% load density. In reading the article on load density and the general tips, it seems to me I’d be likely to eek out a more accurate load using the H-4895 or Varget, based on filling the case up plus the shape of these 2 powders. However, the TAC’s accuracy may be good enough for hunting, plus a little extra velocity out in the field I believe would be useful. On the same token however, I don’t think the differences will amount to much in the real world… this is all just looking at tables and numbers.

That general reloading tips article has a bunch of other useful tips about extended brass life, measuring lands. Good stuff.

Fr Frog has an article about how to develop an accurate load.

Fr Frog also discusses how changing just one component can affect the performance of a reload. Components are not directly interchangeable. I liked this bit of math for determining your “work up” increment:

No wonder the reloading manuals caution you to drop at least 10 percent from any maximum charge data and slowly work up. A good rule of thumb for the amount of an increment to use when working up from a starting load is to fill the case to the base of the neck with the powder you are using, dump and weight the powder, and to then use 1 percent of that weight as an increment. As an example, if your case would hold 55 grains of the powder you are using a good “increment” would be .5 (5/10) of a grain. Once you get “in the ball park” for accuracy (see the article on load development) you could then cut that increment to about half (say to .2 gr in this case) to fine tune things.

Tons of random reloading snippets of knowledge.

Everyone talks about looking for signs of high pressure, but often they don’t explain what that can be. While this isn’t in-depth, this page has a quick list of things to look for:

Watch for signs of high pressure while working up a handload. This means extraction difficulty (however slight), flattened primers, cratered primers, ironed-out headstamps, polished headstamps, ejector marks, case-head expansion, and excessive recoil and muzzle blast. And anything else whatever that strikes you as abnormal about the load.

Article on safety.

Anatomy Lesson – Pigs & Deer

You hear various mantras about shot placement when hunting for certain animals.

“Only shoot them broadside.”

“Take out the shoulders, they won’t go anywhere.”

“Headshot.”

“Right in the neck, takes out the spine.”

“Texas heart shot.” (bleah)

I don’t think there’s any one and only right way, other than the way that puts the animal down as quickly and humanely as possible. What that is remains the subject of much debate.

What I think ultimately gets you there isn’t just having some blind or relative notion of where to shoot. That is, it’s not just about “broadside, just up the leg” because that only tells you how to shoot in that particular instance. If that shot doesn’t present itself, you’re out of luck or you may end up taking a marginal shot. I think a better course of action is to understand anatomy. If you can know the animal’s actual anatomy, you can adapt and make better, more informed decisions about what is presented to you and if it’s a good and ethical shot.

Whitetail Deer Anatomy

Take a look at the pictures from deerhunting.ws’s anatomy page (I’ve made a PDF of that page, in case it ever goes away). I like how it shows the animal, the muscles, the organs, the circulatory system, and the skeleton. Layers, so you can better understand how all the parts fit together. Plus they keep an outline of the animal’s body around so you can learn relative placement of these things.

This article on about.com discusses some of the possible shots. Every hunter will have their own assessment of “what is ethical” and this article provides a good starting point for the discussion.

Feral Hog Anatomy

Found this picture:

I’m not sure where the picture came from or who made it (if you know, please let me know so I can properly attribute it). It’s a good illustration of their anatomy.

TexasBoars.com has this great write-up of pig anatomy, including pictures taken of an actual pig in various states of field dress so you can really see how it looks on an actual pig. This is very important because you need to learn where that “shield plate” is. They also have another picture at the top of this page that shows the kill zone.

Another good article from the California Hog Blog. It shows not only a good kill zone (and also discussions of neck shots), but also argues against the head shot.

Almost ready to start

Slipped out to Cabela’s after work.

I was pleased to see they had Lee Factory Crimp dies sold solo (most of the dies Cabela’s sells are die sets and I was afraid I’d have to buy a whole set just to get the crimp die). I picked up the .223 Remington, .308 Winchester, and the .38 Special/.357 Magnum one. Loading Barnes TSX in .308 was my original desire but that got set aside for now. And I was curious to try out the crimp on the .38 Special loads I’m working with the Berry’s bullets since they are plated and have their own crimping issues to deal with. The lone die wasn’t too expensive so hey, why not.

I also picked up a Hornady OAL Gauge and a threaded case insert for .223 Rem and .308 Win. Why? As I’ve been scouring the Internet for information I read that the Barnes TSX’s do well seated at 0.050″ off the lands (tho it can vary from 0.030″ to even 0.100″ according to other things I read in the Barnes newsletter archive). Am I looking for that sort of benchrest accuracy? Not necessarily, but also why not try to get the best performance I can? In a lot of respects, this is just newbie curiosity for me. Found a couple useful articles about the OAL gauge here and here.

Next time I get involved in a hobby, I want it to be something inexpensive and easy to get going with. Martial arts? big investment of time and money. Motorcycle? big investment of time and money. Guns? big investment of time and money. Hunting? big investment of time and money. Reloading? big investment of time and money. Sheesh! 😉

But I think this finally gets me all of the equipment I need. All that’s left is for my orders of primers and powder to arrive. If all goes well that will be next week and I can spend part of my Christmas vacation working up some loads. Can’t wait!