Want, stronger than before

The Kel-Tec RFB has been an object of my desire for some time. A bullpup in .308? Mmmmm.

GunBlast just did a review of it, with lots of pictures. I want one even more now.

A photo by Oleg Volk, shooting a suppressed one.

Ruger SR9c

While the Ruger home page still says there’s 2 hours and 20 minutes (as of this writing) until they unveil their latest offering, it seems their press release got out a wee early.

The Firearm Blog has pics, and I’m sure more information will be forthcoming.

Preliminary reaction? It seems a logical thing for Ruger to have come out with, in terms of fleshing out their product line. I don’t like crud like magazine disconnects, but it’s par for the Ruger course there.

Updated: It’s now public and on Ruger’s website.

Cue the jokes about how soon after it starts shipping that the recalls will commence. 😉

In all seriousness, while on the surface it doesn’t look like a gun I’d care for (tho I’d have to fondle and fire one before passing any sort of true judgment here), it is welcome to see Ruger developing and evolving themselves and their product line.

Updated 2: GunBlast has a hands-on review.

Bud’s Top 20

I received an email from Buds Gun Shop which listed their top-selling 20 guns for 2009. I thought it was an interesting list.

  1. Smith & Wesson SW9VE 9mm Stainless ($249 after $50 mail-in rebate)
  2. Sig Sauer 2022 9mm w/night sights ($493)
  3. Smith & Wesson SW40VE .40 S&W Stainless ($249 after $50 mail-in rebate)
  4. Glock 37 (.45 GAP) 4.5″ 10 round black frame ($379)
  5. Hi-Point .380 ACP two-tone 8 round ($139)
  6. Springfield XDm 9mm black ($566)
  7. Remington 870 Express, 12 gauge, 18″ blued, black-synthetic ($328)
  8. Double Star 15 CAR 16″ HBAR .223 ($649)
  9. Springfield XD .40 S&W 4″ w/ XD Gear ($462)
  10. Smith & Wesson M&P 9mm 17 round no mag safety ($535)
  11. Springfield XD 9mm 4″ XD Gear ($462)
  12. Beretta 92FS 9mm 15 round ($568)
  13. Springfield .40 S&W 3″ XD Gear ($462)
  14. Hi-Point .45 ACP 9 round ($159)
  15. Smith & Wesson 9mm M&P9 Pro Series 5″ barrel black stainless ($568)
  16. Walther P22 .22 LR 3.4″ black ($308)
  17. Springfield XD 9mm 3″ black XD Gear ($462)
  18. Interstate Arms Black Synthetic 12 gauge Defender with 18.5″ barrel ($185)
  19. Beretta PX4 Storm 9mm 13 round compact  ($535)
  20. Hi-Point 9mm 3.5″ 8 round poly ($169)

That’s what was listed in the email, taken more or less verbatim.

Some things that stood out to me:

  • People are buying handguns, not long guns.
  • Black is the new black. Or maybe a hint of stainless.
  • Inexpensive is popular.
  • Looking at the general make-up of what’s selling, it’s about self-defense. These firearms are not necessarily competition guns or hunting or other such things. People are evidently buying for self-defense. The two shotguns on the list certainly bear that out.
  • As well, many of the handguns are small, which leads me to believe they’re being purchased for concealed carry.
  • Plastic-framed guns are popular. I’m surprised only one Glock made the list, and then an obscure one at that.

Take from this what you will.

Ignore the X-ring

I read about Bob S. ringing in the new year with some range time. Seeing his targets reminded me of something I’ve wanted to post about for some time.

Ignore the X-ring.

Here’s a B-27 target:

(target images courtesy of pistoleer.com)

Note that it attempts to be vaguely human shaped, then a traditional bullseye set of rings is placed over it. So what do people tend to do? Aim for and shoot out that X-ring. It makes sense. It’s very traditionally target-like; we like to “hit the bullseye”; and when you consider this is the target used on shooting tests like the Texas CHL shooting test, you want to ensure you pass and score well so you aim for the X.

What’s the trouble with this?

On an actual human, there’s nothing vital behind the X.

If you are shooting at targets like this because you’re working on your bullseye shooting skills, that’s one thing. If you are shooting at targets like this because you are training for self-defense shooting skills, then shooting at the X is the wrong place to shoot. When SHTF you will descend to your lowest point of training, and if you’ve trained/conditioned yourself to shoot at the solar plexus well, it’s still going to suck to get shot there but it won’t be as effective as hitting your attacker in the vitals.

Let’s look at the TXPT target:

This was the original target used in the TX CHL shooting test and is much more accurate in terms of vitals placement. I don’t know why Texas changed the target.

Where do you want to aim?

(image found via Google Search, but you can see it’s owned by Plasticboy Anatomy Models)

Vertically between the tracheal notch and the solar plexus. Horizontally between the nipples. Some say to make a triangle connecting the tracheal notch and the nipples and aim within the triangle. Some say when you put your front sight on the target, the top edge of your sights should be in line with the armpits. However you choose to index, the bottom line is to know anatomy, where the heart and lungs are as that’s where you’re going for. That’s why I chose the above image, because it shows the exterior structure (armpits, nipples, etc.) as well as internal structure, so you can see how everything on the inside lines up with everything on the outside. Thus when you are using any sort of “realistic” target, your point of aim should be over the vitals, even if it means you’re not aiming at the printed target’s designated bullseye.

Thus if you’re using a B-27 target, aim at the target where the upper “8” and “9” are printed.

Trigger swap

So I’m pondering AR-15 triggers.

The main goal? A better trigger for the “hunting” AR, something that’s easier for the kiddos to manage.

I actually think the Rock River Arms NM 2-stage would be good for this, and doesn’t cost a fortune. And it just so happens I have one in another AR. So what did I do? I went the no-cost route and swapped the triggers. Now the RRA NM 2-stage is in the “hunting” Bushmaster, and the Bushmaster factory trigger is in my RRA “fighting” AR.

I had Daughter try things out again, and at least in doing some dry-fire here at home she’s much happier with the RRA trigger in the Bushy. Works for me!

Funny thing. With the Bushy trigger in the RRA, the trigger feels better. It’s still heavy, but the grittyness is gone. Maybe the disassembly of the triggers dislodged something? Maybe a little shaving of steel was caught in there? I don’t know, but I didn’t do anything except remove and install the triggers (no buffing/polishing or even a simple cleaning). Frankly it feels not too terrible to me now!

I’m really trying to reign in my spending, especially on guns and gun-related stuff. While this setup still leaves me wanting a bit better “fighting” trigger, I’m pretty sure I can live with this setup for now. Problems are solved, I’m satisfied with results, and it didn’t cost me anything other than a small amount of time. Sure down the line I’ll probably look further into triggers, especially because it’s an eventual dream to build my own AR from the ground-up. But for now, I think I can put this problem to bed.

Oh, and I cannot recommend The AR-15 Complete Assembly Guide by Walt Kuleck with Clint McKee enough. The step-by-step instructions and copious pictures (all taken from the right angles) really helped with the disassembly and reassembly. Made it a snap!

AR-15 Triggers

I don’t consider Bushmaster to be a “top tier” AR maker (that’d be folks like LMT, Noveske, Colt), but hey… it works, it fits the bill, and it was all that was available at the time. Certainly the Bushmaster Super Light Carbine that I have will suffice as a hunting rifle, due in large part to that super-light profile. So in the end, I’m thankful for what I have. However, I’m not completely satisfied with what I have. The main sticking point? The trigger.

It’s long, it’s heavy, and it has a “gritty” feeling. I don’t like it. Sure I’ve done a lot of dry fire with it and that helped, but it’s still fundamentally the same trigger. Of course, I’m a bit spoiled because my other AR has a Rock River Arms National Match 2-stage trigger which is so very sweet. While the Bushy’s trigger would be fine for a “fighting rifle”, it’s not an ideal trigger for a hunting rifle. In fact, the main user of this rifle will be my kids and it’s most evident the trigger on this rifle is the toughest part for them.

Aside: Daughter got to handle and dry fire a Wilson Combat 6.8 on New Years Eve. She knows how that Bushy trigger is, so the moment she pressed the trigger on the Wilson all she could say was “Sweeeeeeeet!” 🙂  Yes, it has a very very nice single-stage trigger.

While buying an aftermarket trigger isn’t the most expensive thing in the world, I am trying to sink as little money into this rifle as possible. I don’t want to risk making the rifle unsafe, but if I can improve the trigger in some way I’d like to do that.

There’s the famous “15 minute trigger job“. I’ve heard mixed reports on doing this and any sort of “stoning/grinding” of the trigger parts because you are removing metal and that could cause dangerous failure down the line. Here’s a video of the trigger job, plus a bit more. I cannot comment on if this is a good thing to do or not… again lots of people come down on doing this.

his part 2:

Now, let’s look at some videos from Brownells.

An introduction to AR-15 triggers:

Installing a drop-in trigger (a Chip McCormick single stage):

Installing a Rock River Arms NM 2 Stage trigger:

M4Carbine.net has a write-up on various AR triggers.

So as I look around for trigger solutions, the same names come up over and over. One name that keeps coming up is Bill Springfield. Apparently he can do a trigger job on the factory trigger and make it quite good for little money and a fairly fast turnaround time. There’s much talk about his work, all positive reviews, and I’ve not read of any problems with what he does.

At this time, I’m thinking about trying one of Springfield’s triggers. I’m not sure if I’ll send my trigger for him to work on or buy one of his triggers… still to be determined. But triggers are on my mind and this posting is just me thinking aloud. 🙂

Of course

I have a slight problem with the indexing of the shell plate on the Lock-n-Load press. Sometimes the shell plate doesn’t fully advance to the next slot. I notice it because I’m trying to press the handle to seat the primer and nothing goes. A little nudge clockwise and viola, the plate goes into position and things move on.

I call Hornady’s customer service and am told to give the right pawl a small counterclockwise (backing out) turn; say, 1/8th turn at a time. See if that helps. I’m out of .38 brass so I’ll have to try again later.

I go to the range, shoot some of the reloaded .38 as well as some factory new ammo (Magtech). Shoot some 75 rounds total. I come home and reload not just to have a full stock of .38 ammo but also to see if I can get the shell plate problem to reproduce.

Of course, it doesn’t reproduce.

Oh well. I’ll keep on the lookout for it and adjust it if it happens.

In other news, there’s something awesome about just loading up primers and powder, then getting to work and cranking out 75 rounds in a short period of time. Didn’t keep track, but it was basically “in and out” of the garage. If I tried that with the single stage I’d have been in there for a couple hours at least. So nice!

It does suggest to me a few things:

  • Yes, I want a case feeder.
  • I want to get micrometer inserts for the powder drop.
  • Long term when money isn’t an issue, it would be cool to have setups for every caliber I load. So in addition to the standard dies, I’d need another powder cop, I’d want another powder drop micrometer insert, I might even want more power-through-expanders and powder drops. Not sure really. It all depends how much I care for quick change between calibers. Having one of everything per-load is useful since you can set it and forget it (so long as you never change your load recipe), then swapping to another caliber is a piece of cake. If some things don’t change tho, it’s just a matter of some time and work to set things up for the next caliber, but nothing seems to be that much of a pain other than the powder adjustments. Really, this would be a matter of just blowing money on buying unique accessories per load.

Notes from the gun range

All of the “primer backing out” testing I did I opted to do at the local indoor gun range. Why? Convenience. The thing is, I don’t like going there because they let anyone and everyone go there. They’re right in town, very obvious, thus it’s where folks go. And they do attract the gamut of gun handlers. So I try to limit my time there to off times, when it should be fairly dead. Still, you can’t avoid people entirely, and here’s some things I’d like to point out.

  • If you are going to teach someone how to shoot a gun, teach them the fundamentals at home with a dry, empty, unloaded gun. That is, teaching them the basics of how to rack a slide, how to load a gun (get snap-caps or dummy rounds), how to hold it, and so on. Doing this dry will help build a lot of confidence. As well, it’s loud at the indoor range and you can hear each other a lot better at home. Furthermore, at the indoor range you’re paying by the hour; use that time to do the thing you can do only there: shoot… other stuff can and should be done at home before getting to the range.
  • Wear 2 sets of hearing protection: ear insert plugs AND the headset-style covers. It really cuts down on the noise, the “sharp” sounds from the echo, and you’ll jump and flinch a lot less.
  • Eye protection is good too.
  • Ladies, while we may enjoy looking at your breasts, the gun range is not the place for that… unless you like the feel of hot brass in your cleavage. Wear a close-necked shirt; your boobs will thank you later.
  • Children are fine to come to the range, but young children should have 1. copious hearing protection (their ears are better than ours and it’s going to hurt them a lot more), 2. at least one adult per child to monitor them. Parents should not be juggling children. The person shooting shouldn’t also have to watch Junior.
  • If you’re having to tend to Junior, please unload the gun and put it on the bench. While I appreciate that you’re at least pointing the gun in a safe direction (downrange), that you’re head is whipping around trying to find Junior while your finger is still on the trigger… that doesn’t make me smile.
  • Please get proper training from good instructors. Just because you know how to point-and-click doesn’t mean you’re going to be passing along good knowledge to your girlfriend. Seeing some small woman struggle with the “slingshot” technique and boyfriend/husband chastising her to “try harder” instead of using a better technique, like the over-the-top, just pains me.
    • Furthermore, that tends to lead to a loaded gun being pointed in all manner of direction as girlfriend struggles to rack the slide. That doesn’t make me smile.
  • When you have gear that won’t fit in the lane, like your rifle case, please at least line it up neatly along the back wall. Leaving it just strewn on the floor where everyone has to step over it isn’t considerate.
  • Please don’t flash your muzzle at me. That doesn’t make my wife smile.

Primer investigation – Part 4, Hopefully the end.

Links to part 1, part 2, and part 3.

I wanted to try one more thing in the “backing out primers” investigation: going back to the Barnes bullets.

Continue reading

Shopping List for a Hornady Lock-n-Load AP

I wanted a progressive reloading press. There are many out there, but it seems the big 3 contenders are Dillon Precision, Lee, and Hornady. After much research, including hands-on use of a Dillon 650 and a Hornady Lock-n-Load, I decided to get a Lock-n-Load. The Dillon was certainly a solid machine and there’s a big aftermarket for it too. As well, the different Dillon presses have different applicability (see Brian’s Enos’ FAQ on the topic). But for my needs as a general reloader that wants to reload metallic cartridges, both rifle and pistol (mostly pistol) in volume, across various calibers, the Hornady Lock-n-Load AP seemed to fit my needs best. It also felt like a “Dillon 650 version 2.0” sort of thing, where they saw what was good and kept it and what was bad and improved upon it. There were just little things with the Dillon that bugged me (e.g. those little pins that retain the cases in the shell plate), and the LnL seemed to address those (retainer spring).

Trouble is, Hornady’s literature wasn’t too good at telling me what came in the box and what I needed to buy. foo.c was helpful in making my shopping list, but it seems Hornady changed what comes in the box! I obtained a “new” LnL, with the EZject™ system (foo.c’s is the prior generation). I don’t know everything that changed, but one thing for sure that changed was before the press only came with a powder drop rotor/assembly for rifle; now it has both a rifle and a pistol drop. That’s nice.

It also came with 1 large primer pickup tube and 1 small primer pickup tube. I didn’t know if it came with those or not so I picked up a few via MidwayUSA. So you don’t need to buy any more pickup tubes, but there’s no harm. Karl had lots of pre-loaded tubes at his bench, and there was something handy about that. I believe he said he’ll load tubes while watching TV. That can help your workflow when you’re loading… run out of primers, drop another tube in instead of having to pick up another 100 primers.

The die bushings. The press comes with 5, which is enough to get you started and certainly you can get by with that. However, the purpose of the bushing system is so you can permanently mount a die within the bushing and then caliber conversions are quick. So when you calculate how many bushings to buy, just note that 5 already come in the box. How many you actually end up needing all depends what you’re going to put into the bushings (and the powder drop will need its own bushing).

Of course, dies are separate but I already had those. My RCBS dies work just fine. I did pick up a powder cop die.

As well, you must buy the right shell plates for the cartridges you wish to load.

To get maximum use out of the 5 stations, instead of having one station for the powder drop and one station for the mouth expander, foo.c told me about Powder Funnels PTX, which is a powder through expander bushing for the LnL press’s case-activated powder drop. Things I’ve read are that the Hornady powder-through-expanders are OK but a bit of a pain. Supposedly this guy created his own, with the added benefit that it’s universal. I haven’t tried the Hornady versions (supposedly it’s the setup that’s the pain), but setting up the PTX was pretty simple and that it’s universal is quite nice. Seems to do the job just fine.

foo.c told me to get a 1/8″ dowel to use with the primer feed. It provides a little downward pressure to help feeding, plus you can put a mark or flag on it to let you know when you’re out of primers. I didn’t need the dowel as the LnL came with a little plastic rod just for this purpose. I will say, Karl’s Dillon 650 had a little buzzer gizmo that would sound when you ran out of primers; I like that because it’s one less thing you have to keep your eyes on so instead you can keep your eyes on more important things like powder level.

You’ll also need some little things, like mounting hardware. To mount the press on your bench you’ll of course need a bench, a way to drill 2 5/16″ holes, then hardware to mount it. My bench table is about 1.5″ thick and I found 3″ bolts worked just fine. So, 2 bolts, 2 nuts, 6 flat washers, 2 lock washers, all was good. Hornady doesn’t provide these as they can’t predict what your mounting needs will be, but it’s a simple trip to the hardware store. You might actually want to swap 2 of the flat washers for 2 fender washers and use the fenders on the underside of the bench to give a little more surface area.

And if you want, you can buy extras. For instance, the powder measures are the standard measures, but you can sink the money for the micrometer inserts. Since part of the joy of the die bushing setup is quick changes, you could look at buying multiple micrometer inserts and even other parts of the powder drop (or a whole new powder drop) to facilitate the powder portion of a caliber changeover. I’m sure there are other gizmos and doohickies out there you can buy to trick out your press.

Anyway, that’s about the basics: the press itself, shell plates, dies (including any special ones like a powder level/cop). Likely you’ll want more die bushings. Maybe a powder-through-expander, if that suits what you’re loading. Mounting hardware. Most of what you need will be in the press package.